Where to Stay and What To See in Rome

The intel on the best vantage point for The Trevi Fountain, a funny story about a Saint & a ladder, with a side order of pasta.

Ciao! After a quick dash to Italy to surprise Jake and Allena (and their friend Sally) while they were running the Rome Marathon - which has to be up there as one of the best days EVER…

Sally, Jake and Allena

…I thought I’d pop some info together of what we saw, did, ate, the tours we booked and where we stayed while we were there. And tell you an amusing tale from the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. I am a huge fan of useless information and have collated ALOT of random facts about all sorts of weird things over the years and I like to think, if I was your phone a friend, I reckon I have a back catalogue large enough to draw upon, that with the right sort of niche question, my answer would win you the money. HA

Anyway, back to Rome…

We flew out of Heathrow directly to Rome (Newsflash! No need to separate your liquids! Everything was sent through the scanner like in the ‘olden days’) We had already booked a taxi on Booking.com to save the hassle of finding one. We arrived quite late so it was brill. We knew how much it would be and the name of the driver who met us at arrivals. It was 60 Euros - the street taxis are about 55 Euros but meeting a guy with a sign with our name on was ALOT easier than queuing outside. He sent us a WhatsApp to say he would wait in arrivals, it was so easy.

It was about 45 minutes’ drive to the guest house

STAY

We booked to stay at TREVI STEPS via BOOKING.COM

This is a small but perfectly formed guesthouse, hidden behind an old and unassuming green door on a tiny street in the heart of Rome. SO close to The Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, cafes and coffee shops which are all walkable within 5/10 mins or so. Alessandro asked us to WhatsApp him 10 minutes before we arrived and he met us there and showed us how to open all the doors via an app, meaning no key to lose, or code to remember.

We booked the ‘Tritone’ room and it was compact and bijou (Mostyn. For those that remember Stephen Fry in the advert MANY moons ago!)

Alessandro is the perfect host and nothing is too much trouble. His Mum bakes fresh cakes and (gluten free) biscuits for the guests and there is a little shared kitchen where you can cook, make a cuppa (bring your own tea bags. They have a supply of herbal teas etc but if you want a decent cup of tea, bring your own bags) There’s a coffee machine, dishwasher etc and it’s all cleaned daily and there is a constant supply of fresh drinking water and milk in the fridge.

Homemade marbled Bundt cake on a doily. We have reached Peak Cake-ness.

We stayed 4 nights and it was fab. Any longer and I’d be yearning for a bit more elbow room, a bath and maybe a balcony or something but for 4 nights it was perfect.

If you like a bit more space - book one of the bigger rooms. Ours really was TEENY. However, the bed is super comfy and the aircon and heating are both excellent. It has a heated towel rail so there were no damp towels - BIG TICK. It also has a really good hairdryer. I’d packed mine but didn’t use it. This is a miracle in itself as I am VERY fussy with hairdryers.

If you need other options, there are a couple of hotels within a few paces - Google Map it to see the area as there’s lots here and I’d definitely say this is a good spot, location wise.

HOTEL BOLIVAR linked

It’s located just up the steps next to where we stayed - not sure I would have booked it based on … let’s call them ‘vintage’ interior photos, but it is an EXCELLENT location and it looked really friendly and busy. I really struggled to find a hotel with nice interiors - they mostly seem very ‘vintage’ or really modern.

This hotel faces a little courtyard with a family run restaurant where I had the best carbonara I have EVER tasted - more on that in a minute.

Around the corner and even closer to the action - (by about 30 footsteps so there’s not much in it) you will find HOTEL FORUM linked which looks really good and the breakfast views look amazing.

All three accommodations are really close to each other and perfectly placed to explore Rome by foot.

TOURS WE BOOKED

This looked like a minefield when we started looking. We were very last-minute researching and booking but knew we wanted to see all the obvious things. Although nothing actually prepared us for how jaw dropping it would be, to just walk around. It’s kind of like walking through a massive museum, there is SO much history ‘littered about’ it is SO cool. Anyway, back to the list of obvious things to see

1. Colosseum

2. Palatine Hill

3. Trevi Fountain

4. Spanish Steps

5. St Peter’s Basilica

6. Vatican & Sistine Chapel

   Add or subtract as to what you want to do and see and how much time you have - I’ll link the exact tours we booked and you can investigate from there as you might prefer something else but this is a good starting point.

   We booked THROUGH VIATOR on our laptop & downloaded the VIATOR App. This made it MUCH easier. All the bookings and vouchers are in one place and you can book any tour that suits you. There is so much choice. The tours seemed pricy once we delved in and saw the total amount to pay on the screen, but the ones we booked skipped the (massive) lines and we had English speaking guides in small groups with a cool little headphone so you could easily hear the guide. Well worth shelling out for imo. They need proof of identity so take your passports with you (or whatever you choose)

The choices for the Colosseum were endless, so we took a chance and booked…

THIS ONE - It cost us £222.08 After we booked, we were sent a WhatsApp message to tell us the time had changed (only by an hour) and we appreciated the really good communication from them. Initially I must admit we were dubious as the guy at the meeting point looked nothing like the smiling host on the website, he barely looked up, and talked to us from under his hoody with a cigarette drooping out the side of his mouth. We resigned ourselves to it being a complete scam at that point. HOWEVER… Diego bounced up bang on time and from then on in, he had us eating out the palm of his hand.

He was FANTASTIC - if you get Diego you are in for a treat. He magically painted such vivid explanations with his words that all of us were transported straight back to Roman times and could imagine everything he was telling us, he brought it all to life and his knowledge was FANTASTIC - it was excellent.

This is him holding the flag so we didn’t lose him in the crowds. He managed to herd us in our tight group & keep us all together. If we went out of sight he told us exactly where he was and was always counting to make sure he hadn’t lost anyone. He knew all the great photo spots and even took photos for us. (I have approx 329857239085 photos from this tour and it was REALLY hard to pick just a few, but you get the idea)

It included Palatine Hill and he timed our tour PERFECTLY so we could witness the ‘Cannone del Mezzogiorno’ The Cannon Of Midday. Every day since 1847 a shot is fired from a field gun to set a standard time for the ringing of the church bells. Diego managed to time our arrival at one of the highest points at Palatine Hill, so we could hear the shot ring out and see the big plume of smoke from the gun across the valley, and hear the church bells start ringing all around. It was REALLY cool.

The Forum

He left us to wander around The Forum, about 2.5 hours later. We tipped 20 euros. Most people tipped but some didn’t and he was extremely grateful and we definitely didn’t feel like we had to. His knowledge was amazing and he answered all of our questions and made it all so interesting and ALIVE! I’d book again if we ever go back. OBSESSED by how clever the Romans were.

TREVI FOUNTAIN

We wondered off after lunch and found our way to The Trevi fountain, which I must say is STUNNING.

We didn’t do any tours or have a guide here and left quick sharp as it was HEAVING. I had a couple of DMs from 2 lovely ladies, saying the best spot to see it is from above. So here is an inside scoop - Look behind you, go in to Benetton, go upstairs and you can see it perfectly through a lovely window while you are browsing the store. Now THAT is my kind of sight seeing! If only I had known I would definitely have tested that out for you as a selfless act in the name of research. HA

VATICAN, BASILICA, SISTINE CHAPEL

We felt rather duty bound to see this. Can’t go all the way to Rome and not see it all can you? We booked another tour. WE BOOKED THIS ONE It cost £135.46. Our guide was a very animated guy who walked fast, talked fast and explained EVERYTHING at speed. It was interesting, he was really friendly and SO knowledgeable, he spent about 30 minutes explaining the Michelangelo ceiling at the Sistine Chapel. Without that we’d have probably looked up, said ‘wow’ for the 495932th time and moved on. He had to explain it to us outside. Once inside the Chapel he couldn’t be asked questions (we handed our ear pieces over at that point) and it is against the rules to take photos - the guards jump on anyone they see - although Gav spotted people covertly filming. I KNOW RIGHT. Put your phone down, respect the rules and bank it all to memory. ANYWAY, outside there is a large notice-board showing the ceiling and he went through the whole thing so we were prepared and understood what we were about to see. Once I’d tuned in to his strong accent and his fast chatter, I was EMERSED. I can imagine on a 40 degree day that might be a big ask, but we were in the cool spring sunshine so it was really pleasant.

The Chapel is the last part of the tour - which is LONG. 3 hours long. You get about 10 minutes in the Sistine Chapel. And of course you get to see the ceiling upon which Michelangelo painstakingly painted The Last Judgement.

The whole tour was interesting but it was PACKED - and it felt like a huge tourist money making machine. I am not sure how it could be any different though, as we were all there to see and learn. It’s sort of like complaining that the supermarket is full of people on Christmas Eve, when everyone is there for the same reason, so I get it. Also (I noted, rather like in IKEA) you can only go forward, no turning back to see something again, or look at for longer, just keep moving forward. No Daime bars at the end though. Missed a trick there.

Everything you see there is real. We shuffled in a long queue, elbow to elbow with hundreds of others with their headsets on and their guides at the front, snaking down the long (and beautiful) halls, past all the shiny stuff, which was real gold, all the busts and statues which were of huge historical importance and of course the ceilings, which were stunning. I am glad we saw it - but I wouldn’t book it again. If you want to see everything, it is worth it so you can skip the enormous queues and we learnt loads.

You can’t book The Sistine Chapel without the Vatican Museums on Viator. I am really glad we saw it and I am grateful we understood what we were looking at. Take some mini Daime bars with you though, to keep you going.

Upon checking in at the start, you will be given your voucher with the code on which is scanned at all the security points. You will also be given a sheet of A4 with the Last Judgement printed on it, with the Saints all numbered so you can work out who’s who.

The ceiling of The Sistine Chapel. Michelangelo’s ‘Last Judgement’

FUNNY STORY - Our guide explained that Michelangelo wasn’t a painter and he didn’t particularly want to spend 5 years painting a ceiling at 60 odd years old. However he was persuaded and he learnt how to paint, while he was painting it.

If you look at our guy number 5 in the painting, you’ll see he’s dangling an empty skin (delightfully macabre isn’t it ) Michelangelo put himself in the painting. Empty and spent of all energy and depicting himself as the miserable looking empty shell which let’s be honest we all feel like after we’ve finished decorating. Totally get it.

I was FASCINATED. So - look now at our guy number 4. Holding what to me, MUST have been his ladder. I asked our guide - ‘Is Saint Lawrence holding Michelangelo’s ladder?’ Pretty sure he’d have had scaffolding and painted laying down maybe? but it kind of makes sense to have a ladder in the picture next to his depleted skin?

The reply was ‘No, it’s not a ladder. It’s a barbeque’ I was DEAD at this point trying to hold myself together, after all the culture and historical lessons we had had, I did NOT expect our man to be holding a barbeque.

So. The Romans invented the barbeque. They barbequed the beasts that had eaten the gladiators, in the Colosseum. Everyone feasted. And THAT is what our chap number 4 is holding. A Grid iron. I am done. Someone get me an Aperol Spritz immediately. Taxi for Hurman.

EAT.

Just around the corner from our guesthouse, sandwiched between the Colosseum and the Trevi Fountain is a gorgeous little coffee shop. With a friendly owner, delicious coffee and the freshest of oranges ready to juice, alongside a heap of homemade pastries.

It opens at 7.30 am and the croissants are delicious. LOCATION LINKED HERE

And just behind where we stayed, we found

This little family run restaurant which is where I had the best carbonara I have ever tasted. LOCATION LINKED HERE it is 30 seconds from Trevi Steps guesthouse - up the steps next to the green door.

There are HEAPS of places to eat, lots of independent cafes and restaurants and we didn’t have a bad meal. You will have no problem finding a toasted sarnie or a Caesar salad for lunch and alllll the pizzas, pastas and salami and cheese plates you could ever want, for dinner. With ofc gelato and tiramisu for pudding.

If you fancy a treat The viral, MR 100 TIRAMISU is worth a visit, find their Instagram here This is where you’ll find 100 unique flavours of Tiramisu, and they go round on a carousel rather like in a sushi restaurant, so we immediately rebranded it ‘Mr 100 Tiramisushi’. Has a ring don’t you think? Someone should hire us.

STOP FOR A DRINK WITH A VIEW at The Victor Emmanuel II National Monument

It’s free to wander to the top where you’ll find a bar serving drinks and snacks and the views are jaw dropping. Gav said to me over a cold glass of wine as we looked out over the city and all the Roman ruins ‘there are do-er uppers at every turn’ haha. Seriously though, it blew us away.

Here is where you’ll find The Tomb Of The Unknown Soldier, which is guarded 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days of the year.

There are ALOT of steps so it is very fortunate that you can find a glass of wine there. Thirsty traveller and all that.

GETTING AROUND

Walking in comfy shoes - we averaged 20k steps a day.

The Metro is easy to navigate, we bought all day Metro tickets which were 7 Euros each.

WORD TO THE WISE…

Be VERY careful in crowds and especially on the Metro. Pick Pockets are RIFE. Gav was getting on the train and he felt a hand in his back pocket. LUCKILY his phone was in his front pocket so the guy feigned accidentally bumping in to him and got on the train with us. Another man pointed at him from behind and warned us he’s a pickpocket and we got off at the next stop. It was all very unnerving. KEEP YOUR STUFF CLOSE AND HIDDEN.

The next day, we were on the Metro again and who should be in the same carriage? Yep, you guessed it. He’s easy to spot. Young - around 20 I’d say, he had loads of tattoos on his neck, so he’s quite recognisable. They all have a coat slung over their arm and their eyes are everywhere. This guy was checking EVERYONE and settled near us with his eye on an elderly man with a back pack. I caught the pickpocket’s eye and refused to drop my gaze. It became a bit uncomfortable but I was damned if I was going to look away first. I was in full, Paddington’s Aunt Lucy, COLD STARE mode. And my heart was JUMPING. The train stopped and as we got off, Gav warned the older man - quite loudly - ‘The guy next to you is a pick pocket - be really careful’ He was so grateful and moved away from the guy with the tattooed neck, who looked mightily peed off and the doors closed and we left. Karma.

Be careful. Don’t put anything in your back pocket and if you wear a backpack, wear it on your front. I had my sling back under my coat and my phone in my hand also under my coat. Keep your wits about you in crowds. It would be SUCH a pain in the arse to have your phone stolen, and very stressful.

That said, most people are of course lovely. We felt safe wondering around and we’d definitely go back. I’d do the Colosseum tour again in a heartbeat.

Gelato from The Gelatist just round the corner

If you have been and have any tips - please do add them in a comment so this post will be really useful for anyone who lands here planning a trip.

One thing I REALLY wish we did, but didn’t know it existed until it was too late, was a Vespa Side-Car tour - it looked like the best fun!

One of you sits on the Vespa behind the driver and the other one goes in the sidecar!! You get a narrated tour via headphones as you whizz to all the landmarks AND - arguably the best bit, a cappuccino and a Cornetto is included. TOUR GOALS. If I am honest I’d probably rather have done this than the Vatican Museums. 100 percent kicking myself for finding this out too late!

RIGHT! That’s pretty much it - We went in to Saint Peter’s Basilica and saw where the Pope delivers his Sunday noon address. By this time we were both Basilica’d out so we wondered off to find a street cafe in the sunshine and ordered a very late lunch/ early dinner and sat in the sun, people watching. Crossing the roads in Rome can be a bit hairy, but our guide told us if we see a Nun crossing, cross with her as no-one would dare run over a nun. Another handy tip.

As ever - thanks for so much for being here- next week I will tell you a tale of sliding doors and a complete stranger which even now, the coincidence of it all utterly amazes me and I can’t wait to tell you all about it.

Have a super Sunday and a lovely week - we are all over the place as we have darted to Cornwall to check in with our builder and I might have some lovely Cornish reno stuff to show you very soon! (Narrator : She will DEFINITELY show you today as she will be buzzing about it)

Love

Sally xx

The Sunday Edit is free and always will be. Thanks for reading! xx